Have baby, will travel: Part 2
Posted on September 6, 2015
by lifeonabramlake
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After quite the journey, we finally arrived in Haida Gwaii to more blue skies and sunny weather. The heatwave continued well into our visit on the BC Coast – an area which normally sees a significant amount of rainfall. It was quite unusual to actually feel HOT on the island, not that we were really complaining 🙂 In general, if you ever feel like life is going too fast or that things are changing around you too rapidly, I strongly encourage you to take a trip to Masset, BC, where, literally, NOTHING changes. Everything and everyone seemed EXACTLY as we had left them a year ago when we left the island. It was actually quite lovely!
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At the cultural centre in Skidegate |
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Watching a performance from Maori people in Skidegate |
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At balance rock (don’t worry, Blake was holding onto him!) |
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Whew! It’s hard work being a baby! |
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At St. Mary’s Spring – the legend goes that if you drink the water from the spring, you’ll always return to Haida Gwaii |
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So we dunked Henry into it 🙂 |
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The Masset harbour |
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An early morning walk with the many, many eagles in Masset |
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The Masset library |
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A new mural in town |
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Visiting Sarah’s giftshop |
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Henry working the counter at Sarah’s |
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Dressed up in his new Haida hoodie |
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Going for a walk to Old Massett |
Our plan for our time on the island was loosely planned in three ‘parts’. We had planned to camp for the first week, spend a week with our friends’ in Masset, then then last week we would go ‘glamping’ on North Beach where we had rented an off-the-grid cabin.
Up until this trip, we had yet to take Henry camping and I was curious about how it would pan out. I had heard horror stories from other moms who had attempted it but had had a terrible time as their little ones wouldn’t sleep in the tent. I was anxious to give it a go, however, as I felt that we had better start Henry early so that he would get used to joining our family on canoeing and camping trips!
Our first night of camping was in the most gorgeous hideaway (in my opinion) in Haida Gwaii – Bonanza Beach in Rennel Sound. We had been there previously to camp when my parents came to visit during my residency placement and we were excited to go back. The vistas did NOT dissapoint. I actually think it was more beautiful than I had remembered! Once we set up camp, and Henry was napping, Blake and I cooled off on our private, sandy beach where we swam and beach-combed for treasures. I couldn’t believe that it was hot enough to actually swim. I don’t think I even had worn shorts the last summer we spent in Haida Gwaii.
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Our campsite |
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Henry enjoying the beach |
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Having a nap in his little tent |
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getting some R&R |
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Beach-combing |
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Hiking along the beach |
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Hanging out by the fire w/ Dad |

Camping with Henry turned out to be fairly easy. The only challenge for me was having enough fresh water, and HOT water to wash out his bottles. This was tricky as our water supply was limited. It was also a bit of a challenge to always be holding Henry or carrying him in the Ergo, as there weren’t too many places that I could safely put him down and allow him to crawl around. As for the sleeping, Henry put my anxieties at ease. We modified the bedtime routine slightly (no bath) but essentially, I would feed him, change him, sing his bedtime song, put him in his little tent, then quickly zip up the zippers before he could escape and then just left him to put himself to sleep. He did great and slept like a champ despite Ada knocking into his tent and having Blake and I coming in and out of the tent. It was a lot of fun having him with us and it definitely made me relieved to think that it IS still possible to get out and enjoy the outdoors with a baby in tow.
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Playing in the tent |
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Henry napping in the tent while Ada stands guard |
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Blake and I playing cribbage while Henry sleeps |
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Early morning snuggles |
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Ada & Henry trying to wake up Blake |
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Having a break |
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Eating rocks |
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Loves his little tent |
Our days camping were very relaxed. We didn’t have an agenda, only to move from one spot to the next. Blake and I enjoyed some down time in the evenings which were spent playing cribbage and sipping rum (Blake, not me).
Our second campsite was a ferry-ride away on Moresby Island. We drove along a very bumpy, windy logging road to get to a gorgeous sandy beach at Gray Bay. It was well worth the trek and we spent a lovely afternoon playing on the beach and exploring the tidal pools.
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Playing on the beach |
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At our campsite |
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Ada always nearby while Henry sleeps |
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Blake and Ada enjoying the evening on the beach |
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So many barnacles! |
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Early morning smiles |
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Sunrise breakfast with an ocean view, just Henry and I! |
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Loving life! |
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Waiting for the ferry back to the main island |
While camping, we met some really lovely people including a young couple with a two-year old baby (Meghan, Terry and Mallory). Our last few days of camping were spent at Agate Beach which is a gorgeous park near the north end of the island. Due to a very strong on-shore wind, despite the sun, all of our gear became damp and the evenings were pretty chilly. We decided to splurge on our last night and rent a longhouse at North Beach – a recent development initiated by the Haida Council. Our cedar-scented cabin was a perfect refuge from the cool wind. With wood-fire going, Meghan, Terry & Mallory came for an evening of yummy food and great conversation. It was a perfect way to end our camping days.
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At our campsite at Agate Beach |
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Our little cedar longhouse at North Beach |
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Tow hill |
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Agate beach |
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Going for an evening stroll w/ Meghan, Terry & Mallory |
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Windy!! |
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Mallory & Meghan in their tree fort 🙂 |
For the next few nights, we were happily reunited with good friends Scott & Joanne. We first met Scott and Joanne when we were living in Masset for residency. Generous to a fault, they went way out of their way to help us and to give us a true Haida Gwaii experience. We were so excited to visit them again, this time with Henry on my hip. Not only did they host us and help out with Henry, but Scott and Joanne also took all of us out salmon and halibut fishing on many occasions. This was definitely a highlight for Blake. Don’t get me wrong, it’s an exciting thing to pull in a sparkling, gorgeous salmon into the boat, but fishing is more Blake’s thing than mine. Thankfully, it was Henry’s thing too 🙂 He just loved being on the boat and laughed out loud as the boat was tossed about in the big ocean waves (while I tried to keep from losing my breakfast). His other favourite part was helping Scott drive the boat which he loved.
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Scott & Blake getting ready to go fishing |
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Scott teaching Henry all about Salmon fishing while he eats his huckleberries |
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Beating the (very unusual) Haida Gwaii heat! Also note, Henry, there is no diving into your pool! haha (check out the warning on the side of the pool!) |
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Loving the swings beside Scott & Joanne’s house |
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Relaxing and waiting for good fishing weather |
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Out on the boat – Scott & Blake land a huge lingcod while Henry naps on Blake’s back |
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Henry helping Scott drive the boat -his favourite! |
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Loves the bumpy waves! |
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Masset harbour |
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Coming in from an afternoon of fishing |
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So many boats out in the ocean |
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My first salmon of the year |
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Henry helping Joanne at the helm |
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Having a snack |
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Old Masset from the water |
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Reeling in a very fiesty salmon! Took me almost 10 minutes to get him into the boat. I was pooped! |
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Of course Blake had to then catch an even bigger fish right after me 🙂 |
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Henry taking in the action |
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Back at home, cleaning the catch of the day |
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So many yummy fish! |
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Blake’s massive salmon |
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Using Henry to compare size 🙂 |
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While Blake, Scott & Terry went fishing, I had a play date with Mallory and Meghan at their house |
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Up early to go crabbing on North Beach |
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Henry supervising the crabbing from the Chariot |
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Tow hill |
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Sizing the crabs up |
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Blake and his loot |
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Family photo |
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Blake tossing Henry around while we wait for the crabs to cook |
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Yum! |
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So much crab meat! Pretty spoiled… |
Our last week in Haida Gwaii was spent at North Beach in a tiny off-the-grid cabin with no electiricty, heat or hot water. It was basically a step up from camping but was a perfect stress-free way to ‘rough it’ a little bit but still have a place that Henry could crawl around in. Our week was spent visiting friends, crabbing on the beach just steps away from our cabin, taking leisurely strolls along the beach and in the stunning rainforest and generally having lots of down time sans internet, cell phones or electricity! We also re-connected with our friend Cooper, who took us clam digging and generously brought Blake out halibut fishing. At the end of our week, when we packed up the car, the back was FILLED with frozen salmon, halibut, live crabs and clams! We did pretty well!
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In our off-the-grid cabin at North Beach |
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Crabbing just steps away from our cabin |
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Blake and Ada looking for crabs |
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An attempt at getting everyone in a photo together, including Ada! |
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Fishing for trout at the Hiellen River |
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Henry learning his tree species 🙂 |
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On a hike to the ‘blow hole’ |
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Tidal pools |
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The blow hole! Ada was not a fan, since it made a very loud noise as the water was sent shooting through the hole in the rocks |
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At Tow Hill |
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Having lunch at the off-the-grid cafe |
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Ada waiting patiently for us at the door |
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Moon over Naikoon bakery |
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Going for a stroll in Naikoon park |
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My turn at crabbing |
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Got one! |
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Henry meeting our friend Cooper |
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Back at North Beach, trying our hand at clam digging |
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Blake and Cooper hard at work digging for clams |
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Look at the size of this one!! |
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Cooper showing us how it’s done |
We were sad to leave the island but I know that this will not be our last visit to this magical place. There is just something that draws you back over and over to these amazing islands. Until next time Haida Gwaii!
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Waking up happy in Winnipeg before our flight home to Sioux Lookout |
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Having breakfast at the hotel restaurant |
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Waking Henry up from a nap at the hotel to get our on last flight home! |
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At the Winnipeg airport |
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This face 🙂 |
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